Dublin to Waterford - Day 9

Saturday, July 22, 2017

We're off on a day trip to Waterford! We decided not to do an organized tour and just go to the city on our own. It turned out to be a delightful experience.

We caught a 10:20 train from the Heuston Station (only $40 pp/RT) and arrived at 12:20.  Based on our experiences with "timed tickets" and "sold out," we headed directly to the Waterford Headquarters.

With a 20% off coupon (thanks, Maggie) coupled with our senior discount, our cost for 2 was less than one regular. We scheduled ourselves on a 1:40 tour and chose to eat lunch in the visitors' center cafe, which was perfect. We walked around the exhibits and gift shop while we waited for our tour. Everyone photographs the crystal chandelier above the dining table ladened with Wedgewood pottery and Waterford glass. 

But a real treat was seeing the 2006 Kentucky Derby Trophy beside the 2008 Valhalla Ryder Cup Trophy (we attended both events).

Then we took a factory tour. First, a little history. The original glass factory was founded in 1783 by two brothers who chose Waterford because of its port. (The same reason the Vikings made it their first settlement in the 9th century.) They operated until 1851 when draconian taxes forced them to close. It wasn't until 1947 that a new factory was opened by two Czechs, Charles Bacik, owner, and Miroslav Havel, designer, who brought master craftsmen from Europe to train workers. Today an apprenticeship takes 5 years and many more to be a master craftsman. The factory has 70 of them along with 130 factory workers. There are only 10-12 new apprentices a year and currently the company has its first female apprentice.

We were told that the main difference between normal art glass and crystal is the lead content, which in Waterford's case is 30%. The recession of 2008 hit the company hard and the factory has been sold twice. It is now owned by a Finnish company. Although our guide said most of the work is now done in Waterford, several sources tell me that most of it is done in Eastern Europe. Oh well, it makes it marketable and alive. Our guide said they produce 50,000 to 70,000 pieces a year. Some must be done elsewhere.

Then we took a tour of the factory. As a native of West Virginia where much glass is produced, I have been on many factory tours, but I enjoy them. Making glass is such a team effort. The hot molten viscous material composed of sand, lead and potash, is heated in a furnace at 2,500+ degrees F and then transferred to a mold where an artisan (with incredible lungs) and precision blows it into submission. 

Then it is cut from the pipe, cooled in a special kiln, and proceeds along a line where it is sanded and polished. We didn't see anyone actually doing the difficult cutting, but I'm sure it would be tough to work with precision in such a touristy atmosphere. We did see a robotics machine that cuts the larger pieces. We also saw craftsmen who use the diamond-edged wheels to finish the scallops on these bowls. 

Finally, we saw sculptors who create amazing one-of-a-kind items from slabs of glass (like the one in the foreground.) 

Ending the tour was a commemorative piece for 9/11 -- which showcased the talents of the sculptors and engravers.

The timing of the tour and visit to the gift shop was perfect and we headed back to the train station for a 4 pm departure. We arrived in Dublin at 6 pm and went to the hotel. Tonight we went in search of Irish music and food, north of the Liffey. We found it at the Arlington Hotel on the river. Although it wasn't Irish music, it was 2 guitar soloists who were very entertaining. And the beef pie was delicious. Discovered a show at the hotel for tomorrow night, so we are all set!