Dublin - Day 7

Thursday, July 20, 2017

We like to start a new city with a "Hop On, Hop Off" bus tour. Fortunately, there was one just beginning as we left our hotel this morning. Unfortunately, it was a little cold and dreary, but we still sat on top of the double decker bus with great views.

I tried to catch a few of the more famous landmarks along the way. One in particular is Christ Church Cathedral, a sprawling medieval church built over several centuries beginning in the 1100s. Originally designed in the Gothic/Romanesque style, it had significant renovations during the Victorian era. I love the arched bridge connecting two portions of the church.

Nearby is St. Patrick's, the national cathedral, also started in the 12th century and noted for its 141 ft. spire.

We traveled through Phoenix Park, which is larger than all the parks put together in London and twice the size of Central Park. Located here is Wellington Monument, constructed in 1817 to celebrate the victories of Arthur Wellesley, a Duke born in Dublin. At 203 ft., it is the tallest obelisk in Europe. 

We followed a route along the Liffey River.Then we passed by the Guinness Brewery, which is the most popular tourist attraction in Ireland, but I think we'll pass. Not really into heavy beer.

There were at least 20 other highlights on the tour. Thought the modern architecture of the convention center was interesting.

Also passed by the 5-star Shelbourne Hotel, built in 1824 and the place where the Irish constitution was drafted in 1924.

Following the tour we had lunch at nearby Gallaher & Co. Bistro and Coffee House, which was very trendy. Since we were basically across the street from Trinity College, we decided to take the tour there. Only 13 euros for the tour and Book of Kells. We saved the latter for later and followed a charming recent grad on a tour of the campus. His hour-long guide was filled with amusing stories and personal experiences and space for only a few here.

The college was founded on the site of an old monastery in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I to promote education and Protestant ascendancy. It was also to consolidate the rule of the British Crown in Ireland. Catholics were allowed to enter in 1793 but they were denied professorships and scholarships until 1873. Ironically, from 1871-1970, the Catholic Church forbade its members to attend without special circumstances.

One funny story regarded the admission of women as full members in 1904. (Previously they could attend but not receive a diploma. However, Oxford and Cambridge would give them one based on their studies at Trinity).  By the turn of the last century there was pressure from the public, the faculty and alumni to admit women but the head of the school, George Salmon resisted. He famously said, "Over my dead body." However, he ultimately signed the document letting them in, but died a month before the first one entered.

The campus has the feel of a large park, built on 47 acres with 5 quadrangles or squares. Much of it was constructed in the Georgian style in the late 1700s, such as the Chapel on the left and the dining hall on right. 

The 100 ft. Campanile or bell tower is a symbol of the College and was added in 1853.

Enrollment is 12,000 undergrads and 4,000 grad students. Tuition is about 17,000 euros and students come from all over the world. One amusing note - graduates proceed at commencement not in alphabetical order but in order of class rank. Our guide, who said he was in the middle joked about those at the end, but they are still graduates.

Many famous Irish writers graduated from here, including Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker, Jonathan Swift and Oscar Wilde. Three presidents of Ireland are graduates including the first woman president, Mary Robinson (1990-1997), who also has a law degree from Harvard.

Afterwards, Ed took a rest and I explored some more. I took a walk down Grafton Street, the famous shopping areacrossed over into St. Stephens Greene, and then back to St. Stephens Shopping Center. It had a very old Victorian look but was actually built in 1988. 

Tonight we went to the Gaiety Theater, eating dinner at a nearby pub. This was another of the beautiful old theaters and we were treated to a performance of Riverdance, which we have seen before. To our pleasure, it was the same show and as good as ever.