Pamplona to Uterga

Every journey begins with a single step. We took our first real step on the Camino about a block from our hotel when we turned onto Calle Mayor and headed out of town. The sky was cloudy and the temperature around 50, but at least there was no rain.
We walked through the beautiful campus of the University of Navarre and suddenly the view opened up - voluminous fields of green grass (which we assume is used for feed) and rape (or canola) with its brilliant yellow blossoms, all framed by a high ridge bearing windmills ( the electric kind). We knew our walk today included that high ridge.
Along the way we met a delightful English woman named Paula from Manchester who joined us for part of the day. She had done 35 km yesterday and was doing 30 km today. We were just happy to be doing 16 km today, but we'll do more.
By the time we hit Zariquiegui, the wind had really started to pick up and we could hardly hold onto our hats. We ate lunch in the Romanesque doorway of the Church of St. Andrew (lunch being food we picked up from breakfast at our hotel).
From there it was 2.4 km to Alto del Perdon (about 2400 ft but we started at about 1400). The wind here was fierce- maybe 40 mph. (Think that is why they put windmills here?!!!) Alto del Perdon is that scene in the movie "The Way" which features a wrought iron representation of medieval pilgrims, head bent to the west wind. It is an iconic structure every pilgrim looks forward to seeing. The way down was somewhat steep over loose rocks, but not as bad as many of the trails we encounter in Southern California.
Our next stop was Uterga, which we reached at 3 pm, just as it started to sprinkle. We had already decided this would be the end of the day so we headed to Camino del Perdon Albergue. We secured a bed for 10€ and a pilgrim meal for 12€. Pilgrim meals include a first course (like a salad), an entre with a vegetable (usually fries), a desert and wine. We laid claim to 2 bottom bunks side by side and quickly used the shower. They at least have men's and women's bathrooms. By 5 pm the place had filled up, with all manner of people - men, women, young, old, and various nationalities. There's something about all of this that seems strangely reminiscent of summer camp, and for me, that is a good memory.
My apologies to everyone about the blog. It was conceived in a hurry and I don't know how to get it to receive comments. Secondly, I don't know how to do captions on the photos. You can always reach me by my email (I can get it here) . As for the photos, I'll try to make them obvious in my descriptions.
Until tomorrow.

Made it to Pamplona

After a brief and relaxing 3 hour ride on a speedy train, we arrived in Pamplona about 3 pm. We caught a cheap cab to Hotel Eslava near Church of San Lorenzo, Chapel of San Fermin and patron saint for the festival that includes "the running of the bulls". (Not until July) Again, our hotel was modest but nice and very well situated to tomorrow's start on the Camino.
Since we had not walked through town, as the pilgrims coming from St. Jean would have done, we decided to walk back through the old town. What a delight! The buildings were a couple of hundred years old and all had shops or restaurants on the ground floor. We found several that catered to pilgrims - a smart retailing move - but only found one small object we had to have - a lightweight seating pad for picnics. We walked all the way to the portal of the old wall to the city and then across the Arga River on the ancient Puente (bridge) de la Magdalena. On our walk back we saw the enormous Cathedral de Santa Maria, built during the 14th and 15th centuries, the city hall with its baroque facade and the Plaza del Castillo. It was here that we found the Cafe Iruna, with its Art Deco interior and its loose link to Hemingway (maybe ate here). We had a delicious 3 course dinner which included a bottle of red wine. No problems consuming that. Then a pleasant stroll back to the hotel at 9 while the natives headed for dinner.

On to Pamplona

Another beautiful day in Madrid. Michele and I were up at 8 and treated ourselves to a delicious croissant and cafe con leche at a bistro down the street.
We had a lovely evening last night. We walked around and ended up at Plaza Mayor where we had dinner at one of the outdoor cafes. When we finished, it was after 9 but you would have thought it was 6. The streets were filled with walkers on their way to dinner and the street performers were out. Such a different lifestyle.
Now we are on our way to Pamplona. Before we left, the clerk at the hotel graciously agreed to keep a suitcase we had brought (for 1€ a day) until we return on May 28. We had to bring a suitcase to transport our hiking poles, a restriction soon to change but not in time for us.
We walked from the hotel to the train station, a short 20 minutes. Along the way, I was able to point out The Prado, the Real Botanical Gardens, and the curios collection of used book sellers that line a promenade. Amazing that there is still a market for used books and that someone can make a living selling them. We picked up sandwiches at the station and then boarded our train to Pamplona. We're off!

Arrive in Madrid

I had forgotten what a beautiful city Madrid is. It helps that the weather today is spectacular. Very sunny and in the 70's. Checked into our tiny but extremely well-located Hotel Astoria (thanks Allison) and took off walking. I was quickly sidetracked by the Real Jardin Botanico, a beautiful multi-level garden established by King Charles III in 1781. It is still a center of research and preservation as well as being colorful and meticulously manicured. It was great to see all the tulips in bloom along with Rhododendron, Camellias, Wisteria and Red Bud trees - made me feel right at home.
Then to the train station to buy tickets to Pamplona for tomorrow.
The day was still gorgeous so I stopped on my way back to visit Retiro Park, equally as beautiful as the Real but with more trees and beautiful ponds, large enough for row boats.
Michele is on the plane from Frankfort so she will join me soon!

Leaving Louisville

I was so excited I couldn't sleep. Since I didn't have to go to the airport until 10:30, I had left my final packing until this morning. I had everything arranged into lightweight bags - one for toiletries/first aid, electronics (chargers for phone and camera, etc.), bathing/laundry, clothing (including Alto rain poncho, rain jacket, fleece, Keen hiking sandals, flip flops), miscellaneous bag, sleeping bag, and a tiny "fear bag." Yes, I was able to pack all my "fears" (things I might need but probably will not) into something the size of a sandwich bag. Wouldn't it be nice in life to condense our fears into a tiny pouch - and then at some point leave them behind.

Amazingly, it all fit perfectly into 45 L of my 55 L back pack. I wish I could say the weight was as perfect. It weighed in at 18 lbs. without water. But I've trained with that weight, so I'll survive, or I'll just leave more stuff behind. Apparently, there are boxes at the albuergues where people do that, and others are able to take things as needed. Ah, the spirit of the Camino.

I am now at the Atlanta airport waiting for my flight to Madrid which leaves at 5:50. I just heard from Michele in Saskatoon and her flight is on time so we are both on our way!

One Day to Go!

I am about to embark on the journey of a lifetime -- a "walk" across northern Spain on the fabled Camino de Santiago de Compostela.  I am taking the Camino Frances, the most famous of the pilgrim routes, which has been followed for 1,000 years.

I am traveling with my Canadian friend Michele (with one "l", not to be confused with my daughter who has 2).  We have been hiking together in Palm Springs, CA, for the past five winters and have been planning this trip for two years.  This past winter we purposely did "training hikes," often accompanied by our dear friend Marilyn, to simulate the distance and terrain that we will encounter in Spain.

But now it is one day away and all the last minute preparations circle around me:  Do I have everything I will need for 42 days?  (they do have stores in Spain.)  Is my pack too heavy and what can I leave behind?  (Nothing!)  I can't forget to spray my sleeping bag with Permethrin (for bed bugs?! Horrors!)  Am I truly prepared for rain -- lots of it?!

When we were training, Michele gave me a book entitled "Walk More, Carry Less."  The first chapter talked about our fears.  We often pack for our travels based on our fears -- "I might need this...", "what if this happens and I need that."  The author said the first thing to do is lose your fears and pack only what you know you will need.  And if you forget something, you can buy it in Spain.  But losing your fears is also a reason for doing the Camino.  Many people never begin a journey because of their fears, and they deny themselves wonderful experiences.

And why do I want this experience?  I have been thinking about the Camino since I learned of it 13 years ago while hiking in the Pyrenees outside of Barcelona.  I love the idea of a long journey by foot and the opportunity to immerse myself in another culture.  I see it as both a physical and spiritual challenge, and I look forward to meeting others who are also embarking on this journey.  I like the idea of learning to live with less and to lose some of the fears we confront daily.  We try to control so much in our lives, but many things I will not be able to control on the Camino -- the weather, the availability of shelter and the kindness of others.  All of this is part of the draw of the Camino.  I hope to provide you with an opportunity to join me on this journey through this blog.

 

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