Split, Croatia to Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina - Day 8

Wednesday, September 13, 2017

It was tough to leave the beautiful city of Split, especially with the sun shining, but today was another travel day.

We took a rather direct route out of town and immediately began climbing into the hills. I was impressed with the road and its gradual ascents. It is only about 10 years old and was built with Turkish money due to the religious connection.  About an hour into the ride, we crossed into Bosnia-Herzegovina. By now the scenery had changed to some farmland which produces fruits and vegetables. Here are a few shots of the landscape. 

Our main event today was a visit to Mostar, a city that suffered greatly during the Yugoslav Wars of the 1990s, and has worked hard to rebuild.  Unfortunately, according to our guide, the city was very prosperous with an aluminum plant and some airplane factories. However, all that was destroyed in the war and is slow to return. Today the main industry is tourism and it is only 6 months of the year. People mainly come to shop at the Turkish bazaars and to see the iconic Old Bridge. We caught a nice view of it as we entered town. More on that later.

Our local guide took us on a brief walking tour, beginning with a visit to a Turkish (Muslim) house to show how people lived during the Ottoman rule. 

It was a colorful experience and our guide seemed to enjoy talking about the customs. She showed us how the women converted a square scarf into a head covering. She also told us how young men and women communicated their attraction for each other. If a man came with his parents for coffee and the girl liked him, she would put salt in his coffee. If he didn't complain, it meant he liked her, too. Also, if someone served a guest cold coffee, it meant it was time for them to go. 

We did walk through some areas that still had the empty shells of buildings destroyed by the bombs. A tree is growing out of this one.

We had lunch at Kulluk Restaurant across from the bridge followed by free time. The bridge was foremost on my list. Caught a photo from a distance showing the "coppersmith street" that exists along the old walkway to the bridge. 

The bridge was originally completed in 1566 by the Ottoman Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent and designed by the same man who did the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. Unfortunately, in 1993, as ethnic groups in the city fought each other, Serb artillery on the mountain top above fired on the Bosniak-held bridge and destroyed it. In 2004 it was rebuilt and is now a symbol of reconciliation.

I walked across the bridge and got some nice views from the top. 

Then Klemen, our guide told me how to get down to the river for another view.

Along the way I saw two men in swim trunks. These men hustle tourists for tips before swan-diving from the bridge 75 feet into the cold Neretva River. These two were more interested in flirting with young girls and drinking coffee and I never saw them dive. 

I did walk along the river and ended up in the newer city. I then walked back to old town and stopped at the Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque, where, for 3 euros, you can see the inside (with shoes on and no headscarf) and catch another wonderful shot of the bridge.

Before we left, we passed by one of the several "new" cemeteries -- former parks now filled with headstones, each one marked with 1993 or 1994. During the shelling, bodies had to be buried at night in the city center for fear of snipers. This is a Muslim cemetery.

We left about 3:30 to head to Sarajevo. The scenery became even more dramatic. 

We made one brief stop and arrived at Hotel Bosnia at 6:30. Again I have a lovely corner room, considering it is a 3-star hotel. Somebody must like me. Hope it lasts for 3 more stops. We had another delicious 3- course dinner at 7:30 and off to relax.