Lima - Day 3

Monday, May 25

This day was dedicated to exploring Lima's history, culture and religion. 

We started off on a bus tour of the city with a lovely young tour guide named Vanessa who told us some more interesting facts about the city.

Although it is situated on the Pacific coast, the city's beaches are not very useable. They are narrow and stony. Secondly, the water is very cold and is only 56 degrees year round. This is due to a current that flows from Antartica. Surfers love the waves here but they all wear wet suits.

Our first stop was to Larco Museum.

We were supposed to go to the Archeological Museum but it is closed on Mondays. This is a private museum run by a wealthy family who collected many artifacts from the previous centuries. Much of it was pottery. Our guide pointed out that people lived here 16,000 years ago but only had pottery as of 4,000 years ago. Even then, much of it was used for religious ceremonial purposes rather than everyday life. We saw a few interesting pieces from pre-Columbian times.

There were only a few textiles, but one was of particular interest. It was a small piece, about 3" x 6" and made with vicuña thread. The thread count was 300 stitches to an inch! I did read that from 1300-1500 AD, weavings were considered as valuable as gold and silver.

We also saw a "quipus," which was an accounting system using cords and knots. Some say it might resemble the binary code system but no one knows for sure. Unfortunately, the Spanish burned most of them.

There were also exhibits of gold and silver, especially some used in burials. Included was a Huari mummy of a 5-year-old child from the 8th century which has never been opened.

Our tour ended at the  Erotica Museum with items from the Moche period. The natives celebrated their sexuality and made sculptures depicting various sexual acts.

From the Larco, we took the bus to the center of Lima where we visited The San Franciscan Monastery.

Noteworthy about this site was a trip through the underground catacombs containing the crypts of wealthy people up to the early 19th century.

Then we walked along the city streets to the Plaza Mayor. Along the way we were stopped by several women in traditional Andean attire selling "chicklets" (gum) and other trinkets. (Notice the child on her back.)

Then I saw a very tired

musical group waiting to give another street performance. It made me think about what Pepe said about "informal" work. Everyone has to do something to eat. Peru has no welfare.

The Plaza Mayor was beautiful with its large open square and flanked by the Cathedral of Lima, the President's residence and other neo-colonial buildings.

We returned to the hotel for lunch on our own.

Then at 3, Pepe took some of us to Huaca Pucllana, a massive pre-Inka Adobe pyramid site.

Built by the Limoans between 200 and 700 AD, it was just used for religious ceremonial purposes and the people lived around it. The construction was composed of flat hand-formed bricks that were dried in the sun and then stacked vertically. A layer of mud was spead over the stacked bricks and another layer was added.

The preservation and restoration of this site has only been going on since 1981. It is a massive site but was once much bigger.

Tonight we went to a restaurant for a traditional Peruvian meal and to watch some dancing.

Lima - Day 2

Sunday, May 24

We were greeted by the sun this morning, but it was short-lived. Although rain is unlikely here, Lima is often draped in a low, moist cloud, known as "garua" from May to October -- and it moved in by noon. Such a sky makes one forget that Lima is a desert, in fact, one of the driest in the world. Thank goodness for the rivers that run from the Andes mountains to the ocean.

After checking into our hotel at 1:30 am, we slept in and had our first orientation at 11. It was on the top of the hotel where I snapped this lovely view of the city.

We met our guide Pepe Campoy and the other 14 participants. Pepe gave us an overview of the tour and told us a little about the country. Peru has 30 million inhabitants, and 10 million (or one-third) live in Lima. There are 3 geographic regions - the desert along the coast, the Andean plateau and the jungle.

Then he took us on a walking tour of the area of Miraflores where our hotel, the Jose Antonio, is located. After walking along Ave. Larco, we came to Kennedy Park, which was well populated on a Sunday afternoon with families, lovers and "entrepreneurs." Pepe told us that many people work "informally." This means that they work for themselves on a cash basis and usually pay no taxes. Often this means "making work." These shoe shine men in the park are an example. Pepe said that in Peru, if you don't work, you don't eat. 

There were also artists selling their wares along the street. I found a delightful small piece for only 20 sol (less than $7) from this gentleman. 

I was also impressed with this man's work.

Then we had lunch at Vista del Mar. My appetizer was yellow potatoes stuffed with shrimp, which was intriguing and delicious. Of course, there was some corn slipped in for texture. And the fish entre was excellent.

Afterwards we split up and I took a walk back on the sidewalk of Malecon Cisneros along the Pacific coast. The shoreline is not your typical beach. It has these high sandy cliffs that drop off down to the narrow beaches.

But the city has done an excellent job of sculpting beautiful parks and commissioning artwork to enhance the walk. Three pieces which stand out are "Intihuatana," the hitching post in Quechua by Fernando de Szyszio, "The Kiss," a monument to love by Victor Delfin and "Silencio" by Jose Tola.

Along the way, I could also see people hang gliding off the cliffs. Too scary for me but I loved watching them.

Tonight Pepe and I went to the Circuito Magico del Agua at Parque de la Reserva. Throughout the park are 13 magical fountains that make an awesome display of water, light and music.

Although the park has been there since 1929, the fountains were opened in 2007 to rejuvenate the aging grounds. At first people complained about the $13 million price tag, but now they love it. On a beautiful Sunday evening, it was packed with families with their children dodging the water in some of the fountains, watching the changing patterns of light and water, and enjoying the music.

There's a tunnel of water which you can walk through and stay relatively dry and another where you can stand between spouts without getting wet.

(See me in the tunnel?)

All this for only 4 sols (less than $1.50). (I didn't even have to pay that -- seniors get in free!) What a great way to end my first day in Peru!

Louisville to Lima

Saturday, May 23

Peru -- another place on my "bucket list" that I finally decided to explore. I think I have wanted to go here for decades and this year I decided to take the leap. Of course, it helps if you have close friends whom you admire who have also made this journey -- and most of them with the same outfitter - Overseas Adventure Travel. I was really convinced last summer when my Family Nature Summit friend Jerry shared his fabulous photos with me. I knew I couldn't wait any longer (still couldn't find someone to join me) so I signed up as a single. No single supplement with OAT. Yeah! And Jerry and I both got a $100 discount from OAT because of his referral of me. (He used his discount to go to Africa!)

Peru is a big place --- it's the size of California, New York, Texas and Maine together -- so most trips just take in the highlights. Obviously, everyone's objective is to visit the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu. But this particular trip focuses on the entire Sacred Valley (where the ruins are located).  Of special interest to me are the many villages sprinkled throughout the valley and mountains that are still involved in traditional textile crafts.  We will get to visit some of these villages, observe their processing of the alpaca wool, the dyeing and weaving. We will also be hosted in a home for lunch and visit a school. Part of my packing included gifts for the children and a hostess gift. We even get to raft on the Urubamba River.

So now I'm in the Atlanta Airport, waiting for my flight. I leave at 6 pm and arrive in Lima about midnight, with a 1 hour time difference (it will be 1 am my time.) Hopefully,  my OAT guide will greet me there with a big yellow sign.

We will spend 3 nights in Lima

before heading to Cusco (also Cuzco) for the next 6 nights (with 1 in Agua Calientes.)

I'm off -- leaving Louisville and the horses behind!

Prague - Day 24

Saturday, September 27

This is the last day of my trip. What a treat to be awakened by the sun shining over the Vltava River! I was so pleased to receive my same room at the Clarion that I was in 10 days ago, with its little balcony and great views.

Since I had just been in Prague with the Tauck group, I opted out of the morning tour of the castle to fit in some things I had not yet done. I walked out of the hotel, which is only a block from the river, and walked along the waterfront, taking in the sights and smells of a city waking up.

It was only a few blocks to the Charles Bridge, which was almost deserted at this time of day, very different from how it will be in a few hours.

Only a few vendors had started to exhibit their wares. It was fun to photograph the main gates at either end without hordes of people. 

Walking across the bridge took me to what is known as Little Quarter, which is an area below the Castle Quarter. Stairs on the left of the bridge took me across another small bridge that was adorned with padlocks, the scourge of romantic spots throughout Europe, which contemporary Romeos think "clinches" their love. Unfortunately, these have sometimes weighed down the bridge fences, causing them to collapse. 

The small bridge led to Kampa Island, which was created from the rubble of the Little Quarter after a fire in 1540. The island is basically a park with pubs, lovely walkways and a contemporary art gallery (love these giant babies in front). 

The length of the island took me back into Little Quarter and directly at the foot of the Monument to Victims of Communism. These stark sculptural figures portray how communism eats away at the whole of the human being until there is only an insignificant piece remaining.

The statistics inscribed on the steps are chilling: from 1948 until 1989, in Czechoslovakia alone, 205,486 people were imprisoned, 248 were executed, 4,500 died in prison, 327 were shot attempting to cross the border, and 170,938 left the country.

From here it was a short walk to the foot of Petrin Hill, where I took a funicular to the top (you know how I love funiculars -- or maybe I just love saying it).

The ride was delightful (I was in front) and took me to a park from where you could walk to the Strahov Monastery. But my goal today was the Petrin Tower.

Built for an exhibition in 1891, the 200-ft tall tower is one-fifth the height of its Parisian counterpart, which was built two years earlier.

But because it is on this hill, this tower sits at the same elevation as the Eiffel Tower. You can climb to two different levels. The first after 200 stairs, gave the clearest views.

After a few snapshots, I walked the remaining 200 to the top where the panorama of the whole city was pretty amazing. Unfortunately, my camera went on the fritz and I have no photos at this level (but I really did walk it!).

From here I was able to walk back to the Little Quarter where I met my group for lunch at Tri Stoleti, very classy and one of the best of the trip. At this point, my iPhone had frozen and I was panicked about how to get it fixed. My whole life is on it. Our guide Luci looked up several iPhone stores and there were some nearby, so no problem. After lunch , I walked back across the Charles Bridge with the group and then bid them adieu while I searched out a repair store. One of them happened to be in the old palace morphed into a tri-level shopping center at Republic Square which I photographed on Day 13. Amazingly, no one was in the store but two very handsome "geniuses," who both spoke perfect English. One of them fixed my phone in 30 seconds, and I was on my way.

I still had some time so I walked to the Alfons Mucha (MOO-kha) (1860-1939) Museum. I didn't have time for the tour, but the gift shop had replicas of his posters and many other examples of his work, so it was almost like seeing the originals. He was a very popular Czech art nouveau painter and decorative artist, with a very distinct, almost fairy-tale like design. His work is characterized by organic backgrounds highlighted with ethereal looking women with angelic faces and flowing hair. 

From Mucha's art, it was only fitting to head to the Municipal Cultural Hall, which is the "pearl of Czech Art Nouveau."

Ed had said he visited here when he was in Prague in 2000 and was very impressed. The exterior alone is striking. It features a goddess-like Praha (Czech's word for Prague) presiding over a land of peace and culture. This image, as well as much of Mucha's work, was intended to instill national pride.

The one-hour tour was well worth it. And you could take photos! Built in 1912, it was one of the first electrified theaters. It was constructed under the Habsburgs, but later was the official scene of the creation of Czechoslovakia in 1918. In November 1989, Vaclav Havel proclaimed the country's independence from the USSR on the outside balcony. Fortunately, during its 100+ years' history, the Nazis and the communists did not destroy it - just left it in disrepair. EU money has been funneled to restore this gem.

The highlight of the tour is Smetana Hall, the main performance theater.

Interestingly, the seats are not permanent and the room can be used for dances and dinners.

In addition to this hall, there were several smaller ones, all of which are available for rental by private individuals or organizations.

Each of the halls has a lounge or a waiting area, which can also be reserved.

During the restoration, great effort was made to maintain the original design. In particular was the preservation of Mucha's paintings in the anterooms -- on the walls, the ceilings and windows. 

Tonight our farewell dinner was at Nebozizek Restaurant on Petrin Hill. To get there, our guide wanted us to experience public transit. First we took the subway from Republic Square to the National Theater. Then we took tram #22 and got off at the Victims of Communism monument.  From there we walked to the funicular and took it halfway up to where the restaurant was located. We were able to see the sun set over the Vltava River while we ate our dinner. A lovely way to bid good- bye to Prague.

Cesky Krumlov - Day 23

Friday, September 26

Anyone who has visited Cesky Krumlov will agree that it resembles a village in a fairy-tale with its combined Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings, still intact after a tumultuous history.

Like many of the towns we have visited on this trip, its Golden Age was the 1500s, when artists and intellectuals from all over Europe made their way here and the Renaissance greatly influenced architecture and culture. 

The Habsburgs (remember Vienna?) bought the region in 1602 and ushered in a more Germanic period. After that, 75% of the population was German, until 1945 when the Potsdam Treaty-approved ethnic cleansing expelled most of them. Afterwards, it became a ghost town and many of the new residents were gypsies. During the communist era, it fell into disrepair and the beautiful Vltava River was polluted by a nearby paper mill. However, no money, no new construction, so the town basically cocooned for 40 years. 

In the 1990s tourists discovered the quaint town, and it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Money flowed in to preserve the buildings and it is now the second biggest tourist magnet in the CR. 

Foremost among the sites is Krumlov Castle. It is one of the largest castle complexes in Central Europe and the second largest in the Czech Republic after Prague Castle. 

It is situated on a rock outcropping high above the Vltava River, the same river that flows through Prague, 3 hours away. 

The complex consists of 41 buildings and palaces, grouped around five castle courtyards, and acres of gardens. 

The Lords of Krumau built a fortress on this spot in 1253. In 1302 one of the most important noble families in Bohemia, the Rozmberks (Rosenbergs), acquired the property. The 16th century was the most important period because it was owned by Wilhelm von Rosenberg (1535-1592), one of the last of the family. Inspired by his travels in Italy and the styles of the Renaissance, he had Cesky Krumlov rebuilt on his return home. Unfortunately, despite four marriages, he had no heirs. His fourth wife was Polyxena (her wedding dress was on display) who later married a Lobkowicz whom we learned about in Prague when we went to the Lobkowicz Palace. 

Since there were no heirs, the property passed to the younger brother. Deeply in debt, he sold it to Emperor Rudolph II in 1602. Thus the Habsburgs owned it for 20 years and then gave it to the Eggenbergs for their service in the Thirty Years War. This family died out, too, and the castle passed into the hands of the Schwarzenbergs in 1719. They undertook extensive renovations at the castle.

In 1802, the family line split (into the good and the bad). One line continued to live at Krumlov (the bad), although it was not their main residence and it suffered from lack of care. In 1939 Dr. Adolph von Schwarzenberg went into exile and his entire estate was confiscated by the Nazis. After the war ended, this families' assets were all transferred to the state, through a special legislative act that targeted only them (said they collaborated with the Nazis). At the time they were the largest landholder in the country. Imagine the US passing a law that targeted only one family!

The other side of the family lost their property to the communists, but they were able to get it back through restitution in 1990.

As you approach the castle, one of the most striking features is the colorful round tower built on the site of the first castle.

Its 16th century design features fancy astrological decor, terra-cotta symbols of the zodiac and 162 steps to the top.

(We did not do that.) we crossed the castle drawbridge  (now permanent) and into a series of courtyards, one of which led us to a side entrance to the castle.

Again, we were not allowed to take photos inside.

An attempt has been made to preserve some rooms from the time period of each of the three main owners. 

The Rosenberg rooms were decorated with dark wood furniture, frescoes and tapestries from Belgium, and the ceilings were coffered, like the ones in Telc.

The Eggenberg era had several highlights. They had an "antecamera" room containing a number of game tables where guests would entertain themselves while waiting for an audience.

The most unique piece, which was positioned in the Eggenberg Hall, was a huge golden coach, built in Rome in 1638. (Photo from internet)

The coach was to be used during the papal visit of Pope Urban VIII to Cesky Krumlov to meet the new Emperor Ferdinand III. Instead, it was used to transport gifts ceremoniously to the pope, a distance of about 5 miles. Afterwards it was put in storage and never used again. It is made of carved nut wood and drenched in more than 4 pounds of real gold, but the interior fabric was ripped out and used for other things. The uniforms of the "runners," who ran along the side of the coach, were also on display, and I enjoyed seeing the workmanship in the tunic style navy blue velvet jackets with gold embroidery work. I wondered what they wore on the bottom.

Other rooms of note date from the mid-18th century and most of the furnishings are original.

-- the Chinese Salon, with exotic Asian furniture, a Meissen porcelain chandelier and Delft tiles that covered the walls like wallpaper.

-- the Rococo Baldachin Salon with its red wallpaper and red furnishings with white and gold trim

-- the Masquerade Hall with brightly colored murals covering every wall, showing a festive crowd of carnival goers and figures from "Comedia de l'Arte. (from internet)

The most unique attraction of the whole complex is the Baroque Theater, where we headed next. It is one of only two still in existence - the other in Stockholm. Built in 1680, it was reconstructed by a Schwarzenberg in 1766 into the jewel it is today. Afterwards it was only used for 20 years and then shut down. When it was operating, family and friends often performed with the professionals who came from Italy. The lighting was all done with candles, so many of these theaters burned down.

What I found fascinating was the "trompe l'oeil" (fool the eye) design of the sets. The stage is roughly 70 feet in depth, and yet the paneled sets have just the right perspective to make the stage appear much, much deeper. There are no curtains. The scenes are changed by sliding differently decorated panels off and on the stage. These panels are secured in movable frames which slide along wooden tracks under the stage. The frames are connected by a trolley winch in the center floor. By turning the winch, backdrops from one scene are pushed back and the next are simultaneously rolled out. A scene change using this technique took between 6 - 12 seconds and required only 10 men. How did they know when to change them? A stage manager who understood Italian and knew the opera gave the orders to change the scene.

There were also some very primitive but effective methods for making sound effects such as thunder, horses' hooves and rain. Flying machines sent people soaring across the stage and stage trap-doors allowed the devil to pop up from below.

The theater still has more than 350 backdrops and sets, 600 costumes and the ability to produce 13 different shows. It seats 150 and there is an orchestra pit in front of the stage.  Only two things have changed since 1766: electricity has been added, but in a way to simulate candles, and the former dirt floors have been covered. The theater is now used twice a year for a special theater series.

Following our tour, we had lunch at a famous local brewery - the Eggenberg. 

Then we boarded our bus and rode 1-1/2 hours to Orlik Reservoir for a boat ride.

Unfortunately, it rained the whole time, but our boat was enclosed and it was a beautiful setting. We did see the castle of the "good" Schwarzenbergs which they have since reclaimed.

Then we continued another 1-1/2 hours to Prague, where we checked into the Clarion (my place from before and same room!) and walked to Hotel Opera for a delicious meal.