Villars sur Ollon, Switzerland to Cogne, Italy - Day 5

This morning was the clearest day we have had. The sun was shining brilliantly over the Alps as we made our way to Italy.

Sydney and I managed to get a front row seat on the bus, a decision I told her we might later regret. The roads are very windy and narrow.

This was a full size bus navigating its way down from our 4,000+ elevation to the Rhone Valley and then back up into the mountains. 

All of the roads were curvy, 2-lane types with limited or missing guard rails. But our driver seemed to be a master and all was well.

After about 2 hours we arrived at St. Bernard’s Pass at 8,114 ft., which is on the ancient Roman transalpine route between Switzerland and Italy. A hospice was founded here in 1050 by Bernard of Menthon, an 11th century monk. The hospice cared for travelers who crossed the pass on foot, often in very harsh conditions.

The first dogs appeared in 1800. They were named after the monk, who was later canonized. The original sire, “Barry,” was said to have saved 40 people in a 14-year span. Today 30 dogs live at the hospice and 20 puppies are born each year. More than 10 full time employees care for them. Unfortunately, the dogs were not there today because of some problem with their quarters, but a very nice local woman with a beautiful creature allowed us all to have our photo with him.

We toured a museum about the “pass” dating back to the Romans. There were also photos of local wildlife, which are new to me:

The chamois

The bouquetin 

We also viewed a beautiful chapel there.

Then we walked around the area and took more photos. There was still a lot of snow here.

From the hospice, we walked across the border from Switzerland into Italy.

Our lunch was at Bar du Lac where we had salad, spaghetti and chocolate mousse. 

Outside of the restaurant was a view of the lake and hospice.

We continued down the winding road with more vistas. 

We went through a tunnel that was open on one side.

We arrived in Cogne, Italy, (5,032 ft.), the main gateway to the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, founded in 1922, about 2 hours later.

We walked around the little village and visited a museum, Maison Gerard Dayné, which is a fine example of Aosta Valley traditional architecture.

We checked into our lodging for 4 nights, Hotel Sant’Orso. Our rooms are lovely and I ended up with a 3-person suite with a balcony and view of the mountains. Go figure.

Then we had a welcome reception at the hotel and another 3-course dinner, which was delicious. 

Villars sur Ollon - Day 4

When I woke up this morning around 6:30 and looked out the window, it was a beautiful clear day. But throughout the next two hours, the view changed multiple times, with fog rolling in, then out, clouds appearing, and then sunshine again. I thought you could just sit on the deck for hours and watch the changing sky.

This morning we took a local bus to a shelter from where we began our hike to the village of Bretaye (5922 ft.).

Most of the fog cleared and we were able to get a solid hike in during the morning. We crossed more alpine meadows and followed trails through spruce and fir forests. Along the way we saw more wild flowers. Not certain of their names. Will have to look up later. Here are just some great scenes of the hike and representative flowers.

Above is an orchid.

We came to an area where there were a number of small cottages. Our guide told us that these cottages are on public land and were once used by people grazing their livestock. 

Residents are now allowed to rent them for about $300, but they are required to invest in keeping them up, even though they don’t own them. Some were quite lovely.

We also saw a display of cow bells used as decoration on one house. The bells are taken off when the cows are housed for the winter because they don’t need them and they are heavy. Our guide said sometimes tourists steal these bells off of cows, which, to me is very sad.

We stopped for awhile on a hillside while our guide gave us a talk on how cheese is made. One of the things I learned is that cheese can be made from “whey,” the liquid that remains from making cheese. Our guide had some for us to sample and it was quite good — and fat free! I will have to look for it at a cheese store.

Then we hiked a little longer and I got my first view of the peak that is often considered Mont Blanc — it is the tiny peak in the distance in the clouds. I’m sure I’ll see a lot more of it this week.

Our lunch stop was a special treat. We went to The Crazy Moose Restaurant where we had fondue. Our guide told us we should not drink water with it — only wine or other beverage. Apparently water has a bad reaction with the cheese in your stomach.

Afterwards we broke into two groups, ours doing a more strenuous route through the forest. We all ended up back on a little cog wheel train that took us back to Villars.

We bid farewell to our Swiss guide Mirielle, on right, pictured here with our RS guide Usirus.

Tonight we had another lovely dinner at the hotel. Then it was time to pack for our transfer tomorrow - to Italy!

Villars sur Ollon

We started our day at 8:00 by walking into the village and taking a local public bus about 30 minutes to Solalex (4820 ft.), a beautiful mountain pasture. Just as we got off the bus, the fog rolled in like a blanket and this is a view of the trail. Love the avalanche warning.

But luck was on our side and slowly the fog started to clear. The major view was the breathtaking cliff, Miroir d’Argentine. Although I don’t have a complete photo of it, these views provide evidence of its grandeur. Our guide said her father climbed it when he was 78 and another man from her village did it at 94. Think it makes a difference when  you have done it your whole life.

We continued walking through pine forests and alpine meadows, catching glimpses of the mountains through the clouds whenever possible.  I was surprised that we walked through these forests because I expected mostly alpine vegetation. 

And we saw lots of wildflowers in bloom - buttercups, clover, yarrow, etc. similar to what we had at home in Kentucky a month ago. 

Along the way we encountered a number of cows, who seemed quite unperturbed that we were invading their territory. And they all wear huge bells on big leather straps around their necks. 

We hiked to Barboleuse, an alpine village where we had lunch at La Terrasse. If was nice enough for us all to eat outdoors and we had polenta, a well prepared and delicious local dish.

Afterwards, we walked to Gryon, which is the birthplace of our local guide Mireille. She told us her mother’s family had lived there since the 16th century. We walked around the village, observing the traditional Swiss style of housing and noticing dates of construction. One was 1662 and another was 1750.  

She showed us her great grandfather’s home that was built around 1880 and served not only as a residence but also a grocery store and post office.

Unfortunately, the family was not able to keep it and it now belongs to an English couple. 

We also went into an old stone church which appears to be ecumenical. 

Apparently, at one time it was Catholic, but when the priest saw his parishioners declining in number, he switched to be a Protestant minister so he wouldn’t lose his job.

After our tour, we were treated to wine, cheese and a tart at Cafe des Alps and Sydney and I sat with our new friend Jeanette.

Then we boarded a little train that took us back to Villars.

We clocked in almost 7 miles for the day.

Tonight we had another delicious meal at the hotel and off to bed.

Geneva to Villars sur Ollon - Day 2

I did make it to Geneva today, but not without an assortment of travel issues.

First my plane leaving Louisville was delayed for 3 hours, whittling my 4 hour layover down to one, all due to traffic control in Newark. I was cautioned that I would not make it, but amazingly I did, just as they were finishing the boarding.

Then as I settled into my seat for my 6 pm departure, the captain announced that a passenger boarding the plane saw a leak from one of the wings. So everyone had to get off, including all the luggage, while they made a determination.

After about 30 minutes they said the problem could not be easily fixed and

they would try to get a new plane.

Finally, after towing away the old one, bringing in the new one, reboarding everyone for a 10:30 pm departure, we thought we were good. 

But wait, someone must have decided not to reboard and now we had to find his bag in the myriad luggage down below. And then a mixup with a catering item.

Finally, we left about 11, arriving in Geneva around 1 pm. What a long day!

I along with 4 other RS participants met up with a driver who drove us from Geneva to Villars, about a 90 minute trip. The road followed along Lake Geneva for quite a while, and we drove through a number of villages and cities. We even saw many vineyards. Then the road became narrow and windy, taking us up into our first view of the Alps.

Our lodging Eurotel Victoria Villars feels like it is at the end of the road at the highest point. 

Above is view from my room.

We are in a little village that must be noted for skiing — lots of fancy shops and gear stores.  The weather was sunny so I took a walk to check out the environs.

I managed to get a shot of me in the Alps on a sunny day.  Later I joined up with my friend Sydney for our group orientation and then we had a lovely dinner at the hotel — but the wide assortment of appetizers was the best! Now to bed. When did I last sleep?

Louisville to Geneva, Switzerland - Day 1

I’m embarking on another hiking adventure — this time to the Alps! I will be in 3 countries — Switzerland, Italy and France — hiking below and beyond Mont Blanc. I am excited to be accompanied by my Palm Springs buddy, Sydney, and meeting up with 22 other Road Scholar participants.

Last year several of our other Palm Springs hiking friends (aka “sole sisters”) hiked the full 100 miles of the Tour de Mont Blanc. Sydney and I decided to do a more civilized (and abbreviated) version. This includes being bussed to trailheads, having restaurant meals, a hot shower and a warm bed every night. We may miss some of the scenery (and exertion), but we will get plenty of views. And along the way we will visit charming villages, take multiple cable car rides, learn how to make cheese, polenta and other goodies, and just enjoy the ambiance of the mountain splendor.

So, I’m off, leaving behind Louisville Slugger and headed to Geneva.