Cesky Krumlov area - Day 22

Thursday, September 25

In addition to castles along the Czech-Austrian border are a number of monasteries tucked in to the hills. I call this "religious day" because we visited a monastery and then hiked a trail that was punctuated by the 12 Stations of the Cross.

We drove to Vyssi Brod, which is almost on the border of three countries - Czech Republic, Germany and Austria - to visit the Cisterian Monastery Abbey.

Founded in 1259 by Peter Vok Rozmberk, it was amazingly well-preserved considering the events of the last century.

Once again, we were not allowed to take pictures so I can bring home only memories. I have mixed feelings about the photo thing. On the one hand, I'm sorry I don't have tangible images of these landmarks. On the other, it is refreshing and relaxing to be relieved of others jumping around snapping photos.

Designed in French Ghothic, the interior of the church was impressive for its stark, dark wood beams and pews, very high ceilings and the lack of colorful ornamentation. At the end above the alter was an impressive organ with 2000 pipes. Like many of the historic structures, this Abbey had evolved over the centuries -- high alter dated from 1650, windows from late 19th century.

Before WW II, it was inhabited by about 70 brothers; now there are only 10. During the war, they were expelled, then came back and were expelled again by the communists.

What is really remarkable about this Abbey is its library. It is the third largest in the Czech Republic -- the first being the Strahov which we visited in Prague. It is set up exactly like the one there. In three library rooms, there are 70,000 books, most in European languages and dating from the 17th century. The oldest book is from 765 and contains letters from St. Paul. Most of the books are about theology, philosophy and medicine. One thing that was different than Strahov is that the books were all bound in white and trimmed in gold. Apparently, this monastery did bookbinding.

I asked how the monastery, considering its location, survived the 20th century intact? During 1940-45, it was inhabited by German soldiers. The monastery was used as a storage facility for art taken from the Jews to be used later for a "Museum of Extinct Races" in Linz.

Why didn't the Germans burn the books to keep warm or just to be mean? Lada explained that if you told a German not to do something, he wouldn't do it, even if he was freezing to death. However, he said, if the Russians had been there, they would have trashed it for fun. I thought that was an interesting perspective from Lada about the two nations (or rather, peoples). When the communists took it over, they kept it intact because it represented culture. However, it was not inhabited or used for years during this era, especially because of its proximity to the border, and it fell into disrepair. It has since been reclaimed by the church and has undergone a restoration in the last 25 years.

Afterwards we walked around the grounds and got some great views of the surrounding countryside.

We then took the green bus to a picnic spot before we began our walk for the day. It was still cloudy and cool and we were hoping the rain would hold off while we ate our lunch. This was our last picnic and it made us a little sad.

From our lunch spot, we headed into the woods to walk the 12 Stations of the Cross. The rain had finally relented and it left the trail with a glow.

We originally had planned to do this in the morning, beginning at Station One and ending at the Abbey. But we flipped it now and started at 12. People still do this pilgrimage three times a year -- for the assumption, the immaculate conception and the ascension. Although it is part of the recatholization of the country, it is a very social experience and people enjoy doing it.

It was a beautiful introduction through the woods,

and we soon came to a small chapel, a shrine to Virgin Mary, with an outdoor podium, perfect for addressing larger groups. Some of our members even pretended to address the masses.

We dodged the rain and intermittent sunshine along the hike

and finally came to Station One.

We then walked out of the woods into a small village and past the remains of a "maypole." (We saw several of these on our trip.)

Young men cut down a tall tree and remove the branches and bark. Then the girls decorate it and the men erect it in a deep hole. Then the men have to guard it the night before the celebration because men from another village will want to tear it down to embarrass them. Sounds like lots of sexual innuendo to me.

Thought this house was so cute and typical of many of the village homes we saw. 

Then we returned to Cesky Krumlov, where we had a couple of hours before dinner to check out the town. I explored it first from across the river, capturing this view of the castle in the background.

Then I walked to the castle park and got some great views of the river and town from the other side looking down from the castle.

I'll save the rest for tomorrow when we visit the castle.

We had dinner at another local restaurant and hit the bed after a long day.

Slavonice Area - Day 19

Monday, September 22

Walking along the border between the Czech Republic and Austria, we are constantly reminded of the history of the area. Today was no different.

We left the Hotel Anton in Telc and traveled two hours to Stalkov Village where we began our hike.
Much of the trail was in a pine/spruce forest which was planted years ago for industrial purposes.

It wasn't long before we came upon a "pillbox," a small armadillo-like structure which resembled a tiny mobile home partially buried in the ground.

Our guide Lada, related a very sad story about the genesis of these blockhouses.

When Hitler came to power in 1933, Czechoslovakia, which was only 15 years old, became very nervous about invasion. The area around Slavonice was part of the so-called Sudentenland and was inhabited predominantly by Germans. Likewise, many Austrians along the border were sympathetic to the Germans  (Hitler was born in Austria, not Germany.)

Consequently, Czechoslovakia began constructing a line of fortifications along its borders -- a series of iron-enforced concrete bunkers connected by underground tunnels. Over 10,000 were built and were filled with 1.5 million mobilized Czechs and Slovaks. They were convinced that if they could hold the Germans at bay, the French and British would come to their aid, as agreed upon in the treaty after WW I. But instead, when Hitler met with the French and British in Munich in 1938, they gave into the dictator, thinking that allowing him to take the Sudentenland would appease him. The Czechoslovakian army, outnumbered 3 to 1, stood no chance, and were ordered home without firing a shot. Within 6 months, Hitler occupied the whole country.

Today there are about 100 of these still remaining, and they are not easy to find. Nature has taken over. Lada pointed out the small window, the hole for the gun, (see photo above) and, on the other side, the doorway (below).

Here we could see how thick the walls are. It is hard to imagine that 3 to 4 men lived here in 24-48 hour shifts in such small quarters. 

We continued on the trail for another couple of miles until we came to the ruins of Landstejn Castle.

Our first impression of the barren castle is that it was made of poured concrete.

Actually, it was built in the 13th century and was the biggest Romanesque castle in the Czech lands for many years. The second owners had ties to Charles IV, the famous ruler of the Czech lands, and held the property for 200 years. Then it had a series of owners. In 1771 lightning struck and it burned. The owner had no money to reconstruct, and it became a quarry to build other homes in the area.

The real treat for this visit is the climb to the top to see the views of the surrounding countryside.

After a brief walk, we were picked up by our bus and taken to the ecofarm of Mrs. Langova for lunch and a tour.

She impressed us as a very take charge woman and related her story. Her family had had a farm in a nearby village which was taken over by the state in 1948. After 1990, she petitioned for restitution, but the farm had been ruined by the communists. So she was given this farm "which was only partially ruined" along with her previous farm. Her sister now owns the other farm. Mrs. Langova and her family have worked very hard to restore these lands. She currently has "70 acres, 2 fish ponds, 60 goats, 2 children and 1 husband, who works as an electrician." Her children both have degrees in agriculture, and they plan to expand to 220 milking goats in the future. Her main business is making goat cheese and selling the young males for meat, especially around Easter. 

Then we took a tour of the farm, including the goat barn.

Ms. Langova is also the local guide for a water-powered sawmill that was still in use until the 1960s. She even demonstrated it for us.

Afterwards, our coach took us to the town of Slovenice, a charming enclave of 2,700 less than 3 miles from the Austrian border.

Founded in the 1200s, it was settled by Germans and named Zlablings. During the 14th-16th centuries, the main trading route between Prague and Vienna passed through here and the economy flourished. As a result, beautiful 16th century renaissance houses were built with figural "sgraffitties," many of which have survived - the oldest dating to 1545.

These are designs that are carved into the surface plaster of the buildings, exposing a different colored layer.

It was a very popular architectural treatment during the renaissance and can be seen throughout the country.

After WW II, the vengeful Czechs forced out the German residents - 90% of the population - and took over their residences. However, when the communists took over, the city was fenced in on three sides because of its proximity to the Austrian border, and no one could move or sell their houses. After 1989 when the woods of the military zones were opened, it became a mecca for hikers and bikers and has been dubbed "Czech Canada."

Then back to our hotel in Telc and to dinner at a restaurant across the street, also owned by the hotel, where we were treated to a whole fish - eyeball and all. It was bony, but quite delicious.

Trebon Area - Day 21

Wednesday, September 24

Today we walked in the Trebon area and I have named this "fish day" because most of our hiking was along the fish ponds.

That may not sound very exciting, but the ponds are like large lakes, lined with centuries old oaks that provide a haven for the biggest diversity of bird species (180) in Eastern Europe.

I found the story of fish farming in the Czech Republic, a land-locked country, quite interesting.

Dating back to the 13th century, the leaders had a vision of transforming the flooding marshlands into a series of fish ponds. The engineering skills used in this area during the 16th century were so advanced that the basic techniques are still practiced today, providing an excellent source of sustainable fish.

As we walked along the edge of Rozmberk Pond, the largest in the country, Lada told us how the lakes are "seeded with fish eggs," 90% of which are carp. They are raised for two years and then transferred to a larger pond for their last two years using a series of locks and canals. 

At present there are 2900 ponds in the country and over 500 in the region of Trebon, where we were hiking.

Carp is harvested twice a year, for Christmas and Easter. 70% is exported to Austria, Germany, Poland and France.

It is usually cut into "horseshoes," marinated in garlic and deep fried.

We walked passed the ponds and met up with our little green bus where Hradec was preparing our picnic lunch by the trail.

We continued our walk and came to the charming town of Trebon.

It is very similar to Slavonice and Telc, with its large square, framed by burgher houses with Renaissance and baroque sgraffittie-adorned facades.

It, too, has a large chateau complex, but much of it is used for other purposes. The Renaissance mansion was built by the Rozmberks in the 16th century, but it was later taken over by the Schwarzenbergs, who took possession of Trebon in 1660. We walked past the main part of the Trebon chateau, which now houses depositories of the State Regional Archives, established by the Rozmberks in 1602. The oldest deposited document dates to 1184. 

Also, in the chateau complex was the permanent exhibition, "The Region of Trebon -- the Countryside and the People." It was a combination of three-dimensional dioramas and nature exhibits. Because of the surrounding marshlands and peat bogs, the area has also made a name for itself as a spa. Mud baths with therapeutic benefits are quite popular (no interest here).

We also watched two well-done videos about the wildlife surrounding the ponds and fish farming.

The real highlight of the day came at 3 pm when we were treated to a private performance by the Pipers of Trebon at the auditorium of the Hvezda Hotel. It was a group of about 12 young women who played different size recorders. They were amazing. They played Renaissance music as well as some contemporary songs. Some of them also sang and the whole effect was delightful. 

Following their performance, we boarded our bus and headed for Cesky Krumlov, our home for the next two nights. We are staying at the Hotel Zlaty Andel on the main square. I cannot believe my room. I am on the third floor, with a room big enough for a party, overlooking the town square with a view of the castle in the background. I felt guilty with such luxurious accommodations, but it was the luck of the draw and I really appreciated it. 

We walked to a local restaurant for dinner and then to bed.

Telc Area - Day 20

Tuesday, September 23

A short coach ride this morning took us to the village of Svetla, where we began our hike. We were still in a pine/spruce forest and still in the rain.

There was more rain today and it was coupled with cold weather. I was wearing 4 layers of clothing and feeling like I was back on the Camino again.

We walked for a couple of hours, and the highlight was reaching the "continental divide."

I asked Lada about this. In the US, we have only one (basically the Rocky Mountain range). He said in the Czech Republic, there are several and they are not at very high elevations. We were only at 1500 ft. We also walked along the Velky Pond, one of many dotting the countryside.

This is a popular tourist area so there were several shelters along the way. Fortunately, we found one where we could enjoy our picnic lunch out of the rain. My friends are hunkered down to stay warm.

It was still raining hard after lunch and we were given a choice to continue with the hike or spend time in Telc. I chose the latter with several others.

Telc, which has about 6,000 people, is famous for its castle and its main square, which is quite large for a town this size. The whole town is surrounded by a sophisticated system of ponds and defensive walls.

The old town has changed little since the 1500s, and, of the 40 houses lining the square, none is younger than. 300 years. A fire devastated the town in 1553, and it was rebuilt of stone. There are numerous buildings with "sgraffitties", like we discovered in Slovenice. We enjoyed the little shops, but many had closed for the season.

At 4 pm our group assembled for a tour of Telc Castle, which is located at the end of the main square.  

It was built in the second half of the 14th century. In the 1500s, the nobleman Zacharias z Hradec  (for whom the main square is named) imported a team of Italian artists, who turned the earlier Gothic palace into a lavish Renaissance residence. Their work also influenced many of the buildings on the town square. The appearance of the castle had not changed since the late 1500s, and it is one of the few intact Czech and Moravian Renaissance castles. It was never sold -- only passed from one family member to another -- but sometimes with different names. It was owned by the Lichtenstein family from the early 1700s until 1945 when the family was expelled to Austria and the property was taken over by the state. (I think they might have been German sympathizers.)

Because it has been so well-maintained, it is a delight to see. Our small group had a personal guide, but unfortunately, hurried us through because it was after hours. We also were not allowed to take photos, so my descriptions of my memories are my take-away.

The palace has 133 rooms and approximately 40 are open on tours. Among the most impressive was the huge ballroom known as Golden Hall, which had a balcony for the band. Noteworthy was its ceiling, with 30 three-dimensional octagonal panels hand-carved from wood and highlighted in gold that fit together to form a star shape . This type of ceiling treatment was used in a number of rooms. There was also a Theater Room with a stage, and panels along the wall containing painted masquers. The Blue Room, so noted because of its blue ceiling, had walls painted with an allegory of the four elements as personified by the Roman gods. Knight's Hall contained armor -- lots of it -- with full suits, helmets, shields and weapons from the 15th-17th centuries. On the ceiling were paintings of the acts of Hercules and on the wall, portraits of Hradec and his wife Katrina. But the most memorable room was the African Room, which was lined with numerous heads from animals Zi could not even name.  They were the trophies from a relative who hunted in Africa from 1903-1916. I wish I could have stayed longer here. We walked across an upper balcony and were able to get some lovely views of the garden. The sky had finally cleared.

Then we exited by the All Saint's Chapel, which we were allowed to photograph, where Hradec and Katrina are interred.

From the castle, it was a short walk back to the Hotel Anton, where we had dinner and an early bedtime, due to our departure tomorrow.